Thursday, February 5, 2009

Motorcycle Diaries

From now on, I will post a map of my location on each post, so you can put things into context.














Spontaneous, are we?

When I left the sandy beaches of Raglan, I set my mind on driving through the Coromandels, which is supposed to be a beautiful peninsula just north of Hamilton.
I woke up in Raglan, packed all of my bags, and drove through Hamilton, and headed up north to the peninsula. Just as I arrived to a small town in the base of the peninsula, called Thames (named after the London river), I saw two bikers on their Harley Davidson's zooming past me, and I thought: “hey... I could do the Coromandels by bike!”.

The reason I wanted to rent a bike, is that the Coromandels is a circular area, and supposed to have beautiful scenery, and I know you get a different sense of the road and scenery from driving by bike, rather then by car.

I stopped at the information center in Thames, and started calling every car rental I could find. Unfortunately, none of them rented motorcycles. I tried calling the rentals in the neighboring towns, but none of them rented bikes either.
With a determined mind I decided to go back to Hamilton, and try my luck there, as it is a bigger city. This is an example to where my reluctances to plan ahead offends me.
I drove back to Hamilton for about 90 minutes, and had to sleep there, as it was Sunday, and all stores are closed.

The next day I packed my bags, and went to pick up my new bike.
I rented an old, but well kept, Suzuki 250cc. Because it was a manual gear bike, and my license is for automatic only – I found the fact that the guy can't read Hebrew helpful.
I took the highway towards the Coromandels for the third time.



Riding a motorcycle is not as easy as I thought.
I use to ride the bike at max speed of 50 in the city when I did my license, and the only time I rented one was in Greece, where we took a tiny 50cc moped throughout the island.
But not this. First of all, sitting on the bike for a long period of time makes your ass hurt, and flies keep smashing into your helmet. And, oh yeah, there's the frightening speed you have to ride not to be run over by other cars, buses and trucks. It's amazing how oblivious to wind and road cracks we are when we drive our cars, but when a semi-trailer goes past you on a two lane road – you are nearly knocked over just by the gust of wind.

From the PACH to the PACHAT


After 30 minuted of riding the bike and slowly learning to handle it, I stopped to grab something to eat. After about an hour I came back to the bike, to find out that I left the lights on, and I have no battery left.
I had to walk though town, asking people to help me jump start my bike, and only after walking to the other side of town I found a mechanic, who said: “sure I'll help you... but I'm really busy, so you'll have to bring it here”. :(
After driving half way to the Coromandels, I decided to pull over, and take some pictures of me and the bike. I hopped back on the bike, and started driving. After about 30km, I realized that my small digital camera (I travel with a small compact Canon, and a large DSLR Nikon) has fallen from my pocket while driving. I hurried back to the place where I took the photos, and started riding at 10km/h while looking at the side of the road, to try to find my camera. I was devastated as I got back to the place where I noticed it was missing, without finding it. :(

Let's start having fun, shall we?

After spending 3 hours on looking for the camera, I realized that it's gone, and went on to drive to the tiny town of Hahei, on the east cost of the Coromandels.
I checked in a nice hostel, and decided to go see the Hot Water Beach, just a 5 mins drive from there.
The “Hot Water Beach” is a very famous touristy location in NZ, where red hot water just ooze from beneath the surface of the beach. You take a spade (like a shovel) and dig yourself a hole, and voila!, you have your own personal spa.
I took the spade from the hostel, and drove to the beach, to find dozens of tourists already sitting in improvised hot tubs. I started digging in an empty spot, but all I got was ice cold water. I moved a couple of meters to the side, and there they were – burning hot water coming from the earth. I met two Israeli girls, and spent the next 30 mins trying to build an advanced hot-and-cold tubs, to equalize the burning temperature of the water.
That didn't work.
After giving up (not my idea...) we joined an old British couple, and basically kicked them out of their own hand made spa – which was kinda historically justified – us kicking out the British...
We were joined by 2 German girls and a Scottish guy, and spent about an hour chilling out in boiling waters (“Do you smell roasted chicken...”).
One of the German girl said she is leaving the other guys, and have no plans for the next day, so I suggested her to come with me on the bike the next day, an offer she surprisingly accepted.

It's good to be alive

The next day I woke up and went to see Cathedral cove, just a 10 minutes drive drove my hostel.
The cove is a beautiful hole in a cliff, through which you can cross between beaches. The view there is great, and I took some nice pictures. It was really nice, but really touristy, so I left there to go pick the German girl in the town of Whitianga.
On the way to Whitianga, suddenly my bike started to rattle and shake, and after choking for a bit – it just died. I ran out of gas. :(

I flagged a guy and asked him to drive me to the nearest gas station. He was nice enough to agree, and on the way there he asks me: “you did put it on reserve, did you?”. How stupid did I felt...
We turned around and saw that there still some left in reserve, so he drove away (cursing, probably) and I went on to the nearest gas station.

I arrived to Whitianga, and picked up the German girl from the hostel. We planned to go up north and then back down, and to stop on the way on some beaches, so I left most of my things, like the biker's coat in the hostel, took my bathing suit, some long sleeved shirt in the bag, and my Flip-Flops (KAFKAFIM) and we started driving north.

The road was AMAZING.
The peninsula has high hills and low valleys. Some of the time the road takes you along a beautiful coast line, with yellow sandy beaches, and in other times you drive inland, through everlasting green mountains with cows and sheep's scattered about, roaming the meadows.
The scenery was unbelievably beautiful, and could even make J.R.R fucking Tolkin remain







speechless.




We drove for hours, stopping every once in a while to take pictures, or just to take a small break on a beautiful deserted beach.
After about 4 hours of riding we got to Fletcher Bay, which is on the far end of the peninsula.
We sat on the beach for about an hour, and decided to head back, as I was getting really hungry.
After another 2 hours, we got to Coromandel Town, on the west coast of the peninsula, and realized that it's already 20:00, and we will probably make the rest of the way in the dark, and then, for the first time in this trip, I ate a decent steak.

Achilles and the... German girl
we hopped back on the bike long after the sun had set. Just to remind you, I was wearing a bathing suit and a long sleeved shirt, and flip-flops to my feet.
We started driving into the night, and even when going 50, the wind was freezing cold.
I was shaking and driving and shaking, trying to decide if it's better to go fast and really cold, or slow and... also really cold, actually.


And this is how I find myself – me driving in the front just concentrating on not dying and counting the bad decisions I made that day, and the German stranger, with whom I'm about to die,on the back, praying in Latin.
The golden rule of suffering indicates that after you really feel you had all you can take, you still have ¾ of the way.
Half way there, I decided to adopt my dad's habit when he jogs, to start making calculation about the road, with a philosophical twist, and so I found myself counting the km to half way there, and then half way to what's left, and so of, when suddenly a fury creature crossed the road a split second before we hit him, drawing a sharp scream from the Shiksa in the back.
Another 45 minutes of freezing cold driving, two more suicidal animals (a possum and a rabbit), and 150 dead bugs on my helmet (call me mr. "a bug per minute") and we made it back to Whitianga.
After a quick shower, I thought the German how to say HAGOMEL, and I went to sleep.

Lost and.... New!
I woke up the next day, and tried to sort out where to buy a new camera.
I received a mail from Alon, who replied my sad mail about loosing the camera, with a list of stores offering the camera on sale.
After reviewing my possibilities, I realized that the next city with a decent camera store is Wellington (all the way in the south of the north island – about two weeks from now on my schedule), so I decided to make a brave drive back to Auckland (200 km north), buy the camera, and drive back to Hamilton (another 200km, this time south), return the bike, and drive south to lake Taupo (now only 150km, south-east) with my car.
I won't share too many details from the drive to Auckland and back, as it's an experience I want to forget, but the nice part was to stop on the way down to Hamilton, and take pictures of kids jumping from a bridge to the river below. I arrived to Hamilton 20 minutes too late, but fortunatly found the lady just closing the gate and entering her car to drive home, so I gave her my puppy look, and she went back inside to get me my passport, and so I could drive off to Lake Taupo.



I arrived to Lake Taupo really tired, but satisfied that I am still alive, thinking about the past few days. Let's just say that history records a few better judgment calls.

The next day I woke up, deciding to have an easy day, and just sent a text message to Rob, the British guy I met in Auckland three weeks ago, asking what's up with him.
10 minutes after that, I was walking up the street, when a yellow van, with Rob in it, honking me to stop. Funny coincidence. We had a nice lunch together, and he drove off, not before we decided to do a 3 days trek in the south island together, in about two weeks.
On saturday I am going to do one of NZ's best treks, which is only 18km, so it's a one day trek. I am supposed to meet Sarah, the Canadian girl from the Scuba dive course, and do the trek with her. After that I'll make my way down to Whanganui, to do a 2 or 3 day kayaking treck, and then to Wellington, to cross to the south island.

A final thougt

Oh yeah, I got a new (identical) camera!
This is me after I lost my camera.



The new Camera.


Me after opening the box!



I love everyone, and miss you all.
Have fun, keep in touch.




Sivan

1 comment:

  1. Gee.. man! I'm breathless!...
    what a ... trip!
    keep on the good spirit
    love
    ima

    ReplyDelete